Five Days in Provence: A Self-Drive to the Most Beautiful Villages of the Luberon
This itinerary is a perfect blend of charming hilltop Provençal villages, endless lavender fields (or sunflowers fields), winding scenic drives, fortresses, cobblestone streets, and local food markets.
It’s true that every village in Provence has its own charm and each stop along the way offers a unique experience. And yes, the most popular “hubs” of St Remy, Aix-en-Provence, and Avignon are all worth a visit. But those can be reached easily by train. As this is a self-drive itinerary, it gives you the freedom to explore the smaller villages that tours tend to skip and off-the-beaten-path locations that are not conveniently linked by public transport. You will have full days; giving you the chance to see sights before the tour groups arrive and after they have gone, all while still having that relaxed Provençal pace. And of course, in true Detour Lab fashion, there are lesser-known surprises that tours and guidebooks miss.
Highlights:
A tucked away waterfall,
Morning strolls through local food markets, specifically in Cotignac and Roussillon,
A village with a star above it, a chapel perched on a cliff overlooking it, and a cascading stream running through it,
A riverside lunch as you watch waterwheels turn (no, not just in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue),
A 1000 year-old cobblestone ramparted maze of a village that will let you get lost on purpose.
Best time to go: Whenever!
Late June-July, if you want to see the lavender fields.
Mid-August, if you want to see the fields as sunflowers instead. (I was there in mid-August and the sunflowers were lovely! So, I would not hesitate to go even if you miss the lavender.
Getting there:
Train: Marseille-Saint-Charles Station. There are several rental companies within the station itself. (Hertz was the most affordable at the time)
Alternatively, you can take the train to Aix-en-Provence TGV station and rent a car from there. (At the time, these car rentals were more expensive and I opted to rent from Marseille Station) If you rent from Aix-en-Provence, keep in mind that you will not be stopping to explore the town, as this could be done at the end of the itinerary (making the last half day a full one).
Plane: Fly into Marseille or Nice Airport. Both airports are about 1.5 hour drive to your first stop on the itinerary. Rent a car from the airport and begin your journey.
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The Drive: Marseille-Cotignac-Tourtour-Moustiers St. Marie (Total drive time: 3hr)
Hop in your rental car in the morning, put on some local radio (perhaps a little Radio Grenouille) and begin your journey, leaving the coast and the busy city behind you.
Cotignac (1.5hr from Marseille) Your first stop is the tiny village of Cotignac, dwarfed even more so by the majestic limestone cliffs that stand 250 feet high, forming a natural wall along one side of this quaint and charming village. Wander through the old town with its colorful homes, and along the main pedestrian street lined with plane trees.
The village market is held every Tuesday with local vendors of fresh fruits, cheeses, olive oils, tapenades and other spreads, herb mixes, jams, and of course, lavender honey. Try to spot a local specialty: sweet chestnut cream (crème de marrons), if it is in season. Stroll, sample, and shop (vendors accept cards too) as you make a little picnic lunch for yourself to enjoy at a quiet spot in the town.
Lab Assignment: Find the bakery that makes the Cotignac baguette. That’s right! The town has a baguette named after it! It was created here at a local and well-loved bakery and it’s delicious! Enjoy with a cachaille from the market or nearby shop.
After lunch, take the short (15min) but steep climb to the medieval towers on the top of the cliffs and take in the view of Cotignac from above. On the way you will walk through Rocher et Grottes Troglodytes, natural caves that have been used since the middle-ages. The cost is 2.50 Euro. Go on your own or take a guided tour available from the visitor center. There are portions of the walk with steps, railings, and a walkway very close to the edge of the cliff for a short distance. It might not be suitable for those with a fear of heights.
Market day: Tuesdays
Suggested food/drink stop: If it is not a Tuesday, there are plenty of cafes, restaurants, and food shops in the town. Picotte is a lovely bistronomique!
Detour of the day: Pay a short visit to the site that inspired The Detour Lab into being. The Cascade de Sillans is a stunning waterfall just minutes off this route between Cotignac and Tourtour. Paid parking is easy and plentiful with parking lots just before the start of the path for the waterfall. It is a short walk with plenty of signs to point the way. Before you reach the viewing platform, there are several food stalls offering refreshments, ice creams, tacos, and other snacks.
Tourtour (35 min from Cotignac) Continue the drive (35 min) onward to reach the hidden gem of Tourtour, a tiny hilltop village known as "the village in the sky of Provence.”
The village, like Cotignac and several on my list, is a member of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France ("The most beautiful villages of France") association. With a population of only 600, the village is very quiet and peaceful with very few international tourists even in early August. Before then, the village hosts “the world’s smallest film festival” in its outdoor theater.
The town hall, with a tower at each corner, makes a perfect lookout point to view the sweeping Var landscape that goes as far as the eye can see. And the adjacent yard is the ideal spot for friendly games of pétanque (like bocce). Simply wander to see the three castles of Tourtour and take narrow alleyways and staircases which bring you to art galleries and sculpture shops, before eventually opening up to the village center with, of course- a beautiful fountain. Enjoy a coffee or an ice cream from the stand in the village center before continuing on to Gorges du Verdun (roughly 45min).
Market day: Wed. and Sat. Starts at 8am
Suggested food/drink stop: La Farigoulette right in the Place De Ormeaux (village center)
Lab Data: Reach out for info to tailor your stay around a unique village festival to enhance your experience, such as a costume ball and film fests.
The Verdun Gorge (45 min from Tourtour) This stunning area is an outdoors enthusiast’s dream! Here you can go hiking, rent kayaks, canoes, and paddleboards on the calm lake, and go white-water rafting and canyoning. Spend the rest of the day enjoying outdoor activities before taking the final leg of the day’s scenic drive to, what I personally consider, one of the most beautiful villages in Southern France.
NOTE: I can imagine one could spend a full week at the Gorges du Verdun area, especially those looking to hike the Sentier Martel or Imbut Trail: So, if you’re into water sports, hiking, or just relaxing by a shore, you might want to add on extra days at the beginning of this itinerary. I was happy with my short time here as I wanted to focus on other locations in the Luberon region and still see the beauty of the gorge too.
For those who would like just a glimpse of the gorge there is a small pull-off on the left side of the road where you can park for a short time. It is immediately after you drive across the bridge. Go slow, so you don’t miss the pull-off. Park, walk out on the bridge and drink it all in.
Relax on the beach, rent a kayak, or simply enjoy the view of the Gorge from the bridge. Once you have had your fill (if that is possible) continue on your way to our last stop for the day, the still-secret Moustiers Sainte-Marie,
Moustiers Sainte-Marie (10 min from the bridge This stunning town is wedged perfectly into the cliffs on both sides and one would think the cliffs grew around the town itself. Unlike colorful Cotignac, the homes here are calm earth tones which almost match the cliffs. There is a small babbling and cascading stream that runs through the center of the town and can be heard from nearly everywhere you walk. Flower boxes hang from every window, street lamp, and all along the bridge crossing the stream.
Check into your hotel or guesthouse but do not stay long. You can settle in later. Instead, take the short walk up the steps to the Chapelle Notre-Dame de Beauvoir. This is the perfect time to pay it a visit as the sun might just be starting to set as you depart the chapel, lighting the cliffs aglow, casting shadows on the terracotta roofs of the village, and providing a deep blue backdrop to contrast the shining gold star suspended above the village.
Dinner: Grab a bistro table outside at one of the places by the cascade like Café Marguerite.
Drink: Try the digestive, Liqueur de Farigoule, made with wild thyme from Provence.
Recommended stay: Le Relais à Moustiers. Notify the hotel of your early evening arrival time and the friendly staff will explain where to park, toward the top of the village. From the parking lots, you can see the start of the path for the chapel.
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The Drive: Moustiers Sainte-Marie - Saignon - Roussillon (Total drive time: 2hr 10min)
Moustiers Sainte-Marie Sleep in after a full day yesterday and wake up to the sound of the stream outside your window. Enjoy your morning in Moustiers Sainte-Marie- not in the country-side just near it or as a stop with a tour group, but actually in Moustiers Sainte-Marie. It is truly magical to sleep and wake up in the heart of it. Have a breakfast, shop for the town’s famous pottery, dip your hands in ancient fountains scattered throughout the town, pay a visit to the 13th century church, and ask a local to tell you their version of the gold star story. Then say, “À la prochaine, Moustiers Sainte-Marie” as you will hope to return someday.
Market day: Fridays. In the summer there is an additional evening market on Wed.
Today’s route takes you through the best lavender fields as you make your way from Moustiers Sainte-Marie toward the Luberon. This is the famous Valensole Plateau. Drive along country roads (D952 to D56 to D953 to D8 to D6) on this prettiest section of the plateau and if the lavender is in bloom you should make a stop or two. On the D6, you will see a beautiful field with a little stone house (43.94316, 6.120713).
Suggested stop for Lavender: Lavendes Angelvin is a family farm with sprawling fields and a product shop, (40min from M.St.M), If you have extra time and want to see the town of Valensole itself, that is just minutes before the farm.
Lab Data: The coordinates for the best lavender scene/photo are 43°49'19.4"N, 5°56'13.6"E. If Lavender is in bloom you should make a stop or two. On the D6, you will see a beautiful field with a little stone house (43.94316, 6.120713).
Detour of the day: Viens (added 15min) This Detour between the lavender fields and Saignon is not to be missed. The word “Viens” is French for “come.” So, the town is literally calling out to you. Yet, most visitors to this area do not heed the call. (It's such a secret that I almost don’t want to share it!) Give yourself plenty of time to get lost in this fortified labyrinth-like town. Park right outside the clocktower and walk under its arch to enter the old town. You will be teleported to medieval times.Lab assignment: See if you can spot the interesting sculptures, a watchful eye above a door frame and chairs up the side of a house.
Saignon (25min from Viens, 1 hour drive from Lavendes Angelvin through rolling fields) Saignon is now on almost every traveler’s list, but it is rightfully so. The medieval hilltop village is a peaceful step back in time. The highlight of Saignon is the ivy-covered courtyard, Place de la Fontaine. It is like being in a fairytale. Linger here but do venture further past the courtyard to see the clocktower, an excellently restored washhouse, and views of the Rocher de Bellevue. From a corner of the courtyard you will see signs for the Rocher de Bellevue, taking Rue St. Louis and onward on Rue du Quai. Just after the washhouse, take the tiny street on the right (Rue du Portail Neu) leading upward toward the rock’s facade. Turn to the right (Rue Cilly) and continue walking until you find the Rue Cortine (more like a little alleyway) with ivy-covered old stone houses. This felt like a little secret passage that brings us back to the clock tower. Next, find your way to the Rock of Bellevue and take the narrow rock staircase to the top (be careful with your footing as it is steep steps with no railing, Not appropriate for those with a fear of heights). At the top, you will be treated to 360° views of the Luberon mountains and countryside.
Saignon is a great spot to stop and enjoy a lunch. There are a small number of options (2-3 cafes/restaurants) that are quaint and inviting.
Suggested Lunch: on the shady veranda at Balthazar’s, overlooking the Romanesque Church, Notre-Dame-de-Pitié and the town hall with its blue-shutters.
Roussillon (25 minutes from Saignon) As you pull into Roussillon you will notice a dramatic color change, the town is awash in reds, oranges, and yellows. Check in to your hotel, then stroll to find a restaurant to your liking. There are many. After dinner, explore to see the town’s colors at night. Be sure to reach the high point of the town- the lookout at the castle.
Suggested dinner: Le Bistrot de Roussillon has local favorites and an amazing view from the tables in the back.
Suggested drink: Le Bistrot has the herbal liqueur, Elixir du Mont Ventoux. Made from 30 or so plants from the area like sage, thyme, rosemary, and genaepi, it’s like Provence in a glass.
Recommended stay: Omma Be sure to get a room with a terrace, if you can. The view is amazing!
Parking is available but limited to only four spots. So, you must pre-book a spot with the hotel at the time you reserve a room online via a separate email to the hotel. Doing this is highly recommended! It will make the coming and going so much easier for you as you will be using this as your hub for 3 nights. Inform the hotel that your arrival time is on the later end of their window. They have a small staff who communicate with guests perfectly and they will appreciate knowing your arrival time.
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The Drive: Roussillon - Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt - Fontaine-de-Vaucluse - Roussillon (total drive time: 1hr 40min)
Don your activewear and lace up your sneakers. Today you will walk the striking Ochre trail in Roussillon, kayak or canoe under an aqueduct on crystal clear blue-green water in a riverside village, and take a small hike that brings you to the ruins of a castle, a beautiful lookout, and two windmills.
Roussillon Start your day with a little walk of the Ochre Trail (Sentier des Ocres) before breakfast, when the gates open at 9am. The forested trail meanders through the site of a former ochre quarry and features dramatic geological formations in the characteristic vibrant red-orange color. The color comes from the rich concentration of iron oxides hydrates in the soil. The Luberon has the world’s largest deposits of iron oxides and the informational plaques along the trail provide historical context.
Practical: You should aim to be at the gate when it opens. This will provide a peaceful experience as you will beat the crowds and the heat. The entrance to the trail is just 550 meters from the hotel (about an 8 min walk). The fee is around 3.50 Euro and goes to trail upkeep. The walk is easy with two looped options (stated as 30min and 1hr), although the 1hr loop seemed to be closer to 40 min (even with time to read all information signs, take photos, not rushing). Wear walking shoes that are dark or that you do not mind getting a little dirty as the trail is dusty and might stain your shoes.
Next stop: A late breakfast at the lovely Roussillon market if it’s Thursday. (If it's a Tuesday, move on to your next village stop of the market there). The Roussillon market is small but give yourself plenty of time so you can sample some options. The vendors are friendly and happy to answer questions.
Lab Assignment: Find the local bread maker named Nicolas (of Nicolas and Co) who creates large Pain d’epices, almost cake-like loaves with his favorite flavor combinations using local honey, lavender, and orange. Ask him all about his unique process and get the bread sliced to order.
Have a light breakfast from the market and maybe pack some of your choices for the road as you will work up an appetite today. Additionally, you might store your market finds in your room’s fridge to be enjoyed on your private balcony this evening as a snack or simple dinner with a glass of wine. If it is not Thursday, the cafe next door to the hotel has great grab and go options. Alternatively, Omma Hotel has a great breakfast (tomorrow’s plan) is always a convenient option.
NOTE: Roussillon has one of the best markets (in my opinion) and it is not to be missed. It is held every Thursday beginning at 9 directly across from Omma. The market set-up/traffic does not affect the parking or coming/going from your parking spot, rest assured. As written, the itinerary has Tuesday in Cotignac for its market and Thursday in Roussillon on its market day too. However, day 3 and 4 can be swapped if needed to accommodate a visit to the Roussillon market. This market can also be done on day 5, as the last thing before leaving the village. The Detour Lab can help you rearrange your itinerary so that you are in this village on market day.
Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt: (11 min from Roussillon) This little village has it all! It is a wonder it is not on everyone’s list: Tunneled walkways; ornate balconies, facades, and carved doors; fountains and cisterns, two windmills, and an old communal oven. The highlight of this less visited village is the castle ruins that overlook the village and valley below.
You can park at the Place Gambette or towards the top of Rue de l'Oratoire just at the edge of the old village near the old fortified gate (Portail Aiguier). Walk through the old gate to begin your exploration of the charming village.
Detour of the day: After you have wandered the village, begin your walk to the castle ruins, starting at the Placette Fountain at the intersection of the Rue de l’Horloge and the Rue des Pénitents. To the left you will see the remains of the communal oven and other structures. The climb above the village is a short walk and it will be sunny. Bring water. You will be treated with unobstructed gorgeous views of the village and valley as you make your way to a chapel and the 11th century ruins. After the ruins, you will walk over the old dam (built in the 1700s) and continue onward for several minutes until you see the two windmills in the distance, a symbol of provence. A short climb down a stone path after the windmills and through an archway brings you back to the village.
NOTE: After exploring so many villages on your own, it might be fun to take a guided tour from the visitor center. This would be a great place to do just that, as the village has a rich history and there seemed to be less historical information online compared to other villages. For example, a local guide at the ruins would have been great!
Market day: Tuesdays
Fontaine-de-Vaucluse (35 min from Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt) Enjoy a late and relaxed lunch along the Sorgue river before exploring the village of Fontaine-de-Vaucluse.
Suggested lunch: The Grand Cafe les Terrasses serves great focaccia and salads and is perfectly situated on the river with a view of the waterwheel. Or you might opt for a quick panini and fries from the local and family-owned Snack Glacier du Poete just further up the road.
Fontaine-de-Vacluse is home to one of Provence’s oldest churches (the 11th century Saint-Véran Church) and a charming center (The Plaza de Colome) which is encircled by massive plane trees. But the true highlight is the river itself and watching it flow while you enjoy lunch. The village sits just downstream from the river’s “hidden” source, a pristine spring so deep within the limestone mountains that it is said the actual depth has been difficult for divers to determine (at least 300 meters). The nutrient-rich water is great for aquatic plants and the crystal clarity of the water reveals a very mossy and plant-covered riverbed, giving the river its unique emerald-green color. The river flows around dams and old paper mills from the 17th and 18th century, one of which is now a museum and open to the public. It's worth the 20 minute walk from the center to the source of the river. There is also a small bike rental shop in the village if you prefer to be on wheels for a change!
Next .you have a chance to experience the relaxing river up close. You will head to the Canoë Kayak Vert Company (Fontaine de Vaucluse location) for your “descent of the Sorge.” The canoe experience is fully guided with an expert paddler and takes about two hours, plus time to get gear, register, etc. The trip starts under the scenic Fontaine de Vaucluse aqueduct. It’s not old and it is not the famous roman Pont du Gard (1.5 hr away) but it’s still impressive.
Practical: There is usually a break for a chance to swim. The company’s old bus picks you up downriver at the end and drives you back to your starting point, where your car will be parked (15 min) Water shoes and quick drying clothes are best, but there are changing rooms at the check-in. Reserve a spot in advance but bring cash for payment.
If you prefer to stay on land and put the Sorgue to work in a different way, back in the village the paper mill museum (Moulin à Papier Vallis Clausa) has a hands-on lesson where you can make a sheet of paper using traditional 15th century techniques.
NOTE: Fontaine-de Vaucluse is sometimes overlooked for its larger antique-toting sister L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Sure, both have waterwheels. Both are situated on the same river (not as green in L’isle-sur-la-Sorgue). If you are looking to buy antique items or you enjoy antiquing, you might like to choose the L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue if you are there on the antique market day (Sundays). It will be an easy switch one town for the other with almost no change to the itinerary.
After an active day head home, shower up, and enjoy dinner. Here are some of our personal suggestions:
Budget and romantic: A sunset picnic of your charcuterie board market finds from that morning on your private balcony terrace with a glass of wine. Within walking distance, good value, and delightful: La Grappe de Raisin Michelin Star: Pre-book a reservation at La Table de Xavier Mathieu (a drive to the nearby village Joucas, €€€€)
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The Drive: Roussillon - Pernes le Fontaines - Châteauneuf-de-Gadagne (or other village choice) - Gordes - Roussillon (1hr 50min)
Roussillon The hotel serves nice breakfast starting at 8:30am for an additional cost- fresh fruit, croissants, sliced ham and cheese. Have your fill, as lunch might be later than usual. From your table you will be able to see the famous ochre cliffs of Roussillon. There is a cute food shop called Maison Brémond 1830 (a bit of a local chain in Provence) which is worth a peek (and a great place to bring home local products). Either way, you will want to start your day well fueled because today you will drive to one or two villages of the Cote du Rhone with lovely stops between.
Pernes les Fontaines (depart 9am, 40min on the backroads from Roussillon through Murs) The absolute best way to explore this town is by completing the self-guided Fountain Trail, which weaves through the medieval town center as you discover over 40 fountains, each with their own character. As you complete the trail, you will also pass 14 designated national monuments, the 12th-century clock tower, the 16th-century Notre-Dame Gate, and the 13th-century Tour Ferrande. To go inside to see the Tour Ferrande’s famous frescoes, you must book a guided tour in advance via phone (04 90 61 31 04 for dates and times).
There are two options for the Fountain Trail, a shorter 1-hr walk of the highlights or a 2-hr walk, which will take you to all the fountains. Both are well marked (blue=1hr, red = 2hr) and maps for the tour are available at the Tourist Office at Place Gabriel Moutte. Of course we suggest the 2hr full circuit, but if you are considering a Cote du Rhone village stop that is further away than Gadagne, it might be best for you to complete the shorter Fountain Trail instead, using that hour for the drive north. Parking is available nearby the tourist office.
Châteauneuf-de-Gadagne (20min from Pernes les Fontaines) or other Cote du Rhone Villages (see times below) After exploring Pernes les Fountaines, you have the option of which Cote du Rhone village (or maybe two) you would like to visit. Important consideration should be given to driving distances from your current location (in P. les F.) to your chosen village and the time it will take to get back to Roussillon. Wine is such a personal thing and The Detour Lab knows this decision is best left up to you.
We do suggest a stop in Châteauneuf-de-Gadagne (20 min) for wine drinkers and non-drinkers alike. It is one of the 21 villages recognized as AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages and It is a simply beautiful village to wander. Plus, its close proximity (only 20 min away) gives you a chance to experience the Rhone, taste wines from the region, and still have that relaxed Provence pace to the itinerary. Choose from the many quaint lunch spots as you have worked up an appetite by now with the fountain trail. After lunch, head to a tasting in the wine cellars of Domaine De La Chapelle, one of the oldest estates in Vaucluse. (open Tues-Friday from 2:30-6pm, 2:30pm was a perfect time).
If you opt to skip Gadagne to visit Rhone villages further away, the list below might be helpful as it includes a list of other AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages and the corresponding driving distances all from Pernes le Fontaines.
35 min drive: Rasteau, Séguret, and Cairanne (20min from each other, making this a good combination, if time allows)
40 min drive: Vaison-la-Romaine
45 min drive: Suze-la-Roussillon and Puyméras: (30 min from each other)
55 min: Massif d'Uchaux:
When deciding which village to visit, keep in mind the timing because this chosen village will be the furthest point of the road trip today and you still have the return trip to Roussillon, which is at least an hour away. If you chose one of the villages above, you might need to bump the visit to Gordes to the next day. You definitely do not want to feel rushed in Provence.
Lab Data: The Detour Lab would be happy to help plan the logistics and customize your trip to specific vineyards, tastings, and wine villages based on your wine preferences and interests.
Alternative Lab Activity: Not interested in wine? (We will forgive you). Instead of wine tasting in Gadagne or visiting a Rhone wine village, head east to Sault. There at Aroma Plantes you can attend a lavender distillation workshop or learn the science behind soap-making using local lavender. (We are the Detour Lab afterall.) Both options allow you to take home your creations!
Gordes: (35min from winetasting Domaine De La Chapelle) This is considered by many to be the crown jewel of the Luberon, a beautiful hilltop village with the large castle dominating the village’s “skyline.” Around every corner in Gordes, there is a beautiful sight; be it a small shady square, an archway, a narrow calade, a fountain, or an art shop, a boutique, or a gallery. You will be drawn to Place Genty Pantaly, a shady square on the south side of the castle with a beautiful fountain. Be sure to make a stop in the Church of Saint Firmin (the patron saint of the village) and walk down the calade to the lookout spot at the edge of the old town. Arriving in the early evening, means the tour groups will have left and it gives you a chance to see the white stone of the village in the evening sun. You will be able to catch a stunning view of the village at the golden hour and as the sun is setting from the road (the D15). This is the famous photo spot to capture the village from afar. It has graced postcards and coffeetable books. You can park at the Gendarmerie lot and walk to enjoy this view just about 500 meters away. There is also a small number of parking spots immediately next to the lookout/photo point. Spaces are limited and although there is a 5 minute limit, finding a spot was a bit of a challenge. Be patient and drive slowly as there may be tourists walking from the Gendamerie parking down to the photo spot.
Detour of the Day: The lower section of Gordes. It is surprising that so few tourists visit the lower section of Gordes. This pedestrian-only section of town known as the "Quartier de Fontaine Basse" (the district of the lower fountain) has some of the prettiest calades in the village. And it has interesting remains of old houses, the only fortified gate to the village, and the original wash station. History buffs will enjoy the Caves du Palais Saint Firmin, where you can see medieval cellars, oil mills, and ancient dwellings carved directly into the rock. To get to the "Quartier de Fontaine Basse" you can either start at the town center in the upper village or at the photo spot. Regardless, the walk is steep and cobble-stoned but short and absolutely lovely. If you parked at the Gendarmerie lot, you can start your entire exploration of Gordes by walking the 500ish meters to the photo spot, then descend to the "Quartier de Fontaine Basse" before climbing up to the upper village and castle.
Stay in Gordes for dinner if you chose, or return home to Omma with time to get ready for a dinner reservation at 8:30pm.
Suggested Dinner: A perfect dinner at Omma. The dinner was well worth the splurge. An excellent way to spend your final night in beautiful Provence.
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The Drive: Roussillon - Lacoste - Lourmarin - Marseille (Total Drive: 1hr 45min)
Today the focus is on local artists, the work they create, and the beautiful Provencal setting that inspires it. The two villages visited today are hubs for painting, sculpture, and mixed media art. Depart Roussillon early and drive to Lacoste in the morning to avoid the tour buses. (I was there by 8am and almost had the place to myself).
Lacoste: (16 min the Roussillon) The once hidden gem of Lacoste is now famous on instagram, in the influencer’s world, and beyond. But don’t let that stop you from having a visit. It is absolutely famous for a reason! Just be sure to go either in the early morning (or late evening). Even with its recent rise in popularity, it will most likely still be quieter than bustling Gordes.
Lacoste is known for its medieval stone houses, its beautifully restored 1550 belfry, panoramic valley views, and the ruined castle of the notorious Marquis de Sade, which was partially restored by fashion designer Pierre Cardin. Artist Max Ernst and writers/poets André Breton and René Char have stayed in the village. On top of all that, the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) has a study abroad program and an artist-in- residency program here. Several shops showcase student work and you will see interesting, fresh, and unique pieces from budding artists, giving a modern air to the medieval town.
Suggested food/drink stop: Have your coffee or a cold beverage in Place de l'Église at the bottom of the village. There are a couple of cafes here. In the summer, choose the one that has seating under the shading umbrellas across the street. Servers pick up coffee and drink orders through the open window to the indoor bar. The view over the valley is lovely.
Maybe a light breakfast, if you are hungry. It is suggested to wait to have a larger lunch until our next stop, where you will have many more options.
Market day: Wednesday
NOTE: Park below the village at the free Parking Paysager and walk up the steep streets to the old town (5 min). The cobblestones in the old town, similar to Gordes, are very worn and can be slippery even when dry. Shoes that provide traction are key.
Detour of the day: The Corkscrew Museum at Domaine de la Citadelle in Ménerbes (11min from Lacoste, added 15 min to total drive). We love a good quirky museum about random things. If you do too, you’ll enjoy this collection of over 1000 corkscrews from around the world, ranging from the 1600s to present day. (opens daily at 10am, 5 Euro). There is a cute bistro on site if you choose to have lunch here.
Lourmarin (30 min from Lacoste, 35 from the corkscrew museum) For your final Luberon village stop, you will be in lovely Lourmarin. Just being there will make you want to pick up a paintbrush due to the scenic surroundings and the positive enthusiasm of the local artists and shop owners themselves. The village has also called and inspired writers for centuries. Most well known former residents are Henri Bosco and Albert Camus, both buried here. Camus has a modest grave in the village cemetery just outside the town. The tourist center offers a literary walk which features his life as a Lourmarinois
This town is a great place to pick up a souvenir that is meaningful to you and reflects your trip because so many shops, galleries, and artisan boutiques are full of beautiful items that are made locally. While you visit shops (like in Lacoste) and don’t shy from asking questions. Several artists were very happy to tell us their process, their inspiration,and their story. One even showed us the workspace just behind the main shop so we could see how one can mix paints to mimic the local ochre colors.
Market day: Friday
Suggested lunch: A terrace on Place de Henri Barthélémy: Le Comptoir or La Réserve, A terrace On Place de l’Ormeau: Café Gaby, L’Insolite, or Café La Fontaine, Or the patio at Bacheto restaurant in the Le Moulin hotel, for a splurge.
Sit at one of the many terraces in the squares, enjoy lunch, people watch, and reflect on your beautiful trip in Provence. After lunch, continue south to Marseille (1 hr 15 min) to return the car at Saint Charles Statioin.. As you leave Lourmarin and the Luberon behind you, you won’t just have photos or that list below of places you visited, but a slower pace and quicker eye to spot simple beauty of wherever you are.
La fin
Villages visited in order: 13
Cotignac
Tourtour
Moustiers st. Marie
Viens
Saignon
Roussillon
Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt:
Pernes les Fontaine
Châteauneuf-de-Gadagne or other Cote du Rhone Villages
Fontaine de Vecluse
Gordes
Lacoste
Lourmarin